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Jakkal's Ramblings

The Equal Opportunity Offender


September 12th, 2015

My tweets @ 08:02 am

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From:makovette
Date:September 12th, 2015 10:57 pm (UTC)
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TY for the truck updates Jakkal, much appreciated.

I seem to recall there's a minimum run time and maybe distance criteria for OBD II and III systems before they will give the all clear.

Kinda makes me think of Bow and his epic over night delivery routes - he could have done the minimum in one night's worth of work I suspect...

Presumably/hopefully it's not throwing any codes though, and is running strong.

CYa!
Mako
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From:jakkal
Date:September 12th, 2015 11:11 pm (UTC)
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No, no codes. But today when I drove it, it started out making a tapping/knocking sound. Not terribly loud, but distinct and worrying. But as I drove it, it stopped. I'm wonder if this is the typical GM "Sticky Lifter" problem or something else.

Either way I have to drop it off at the shop for Monday, so I'll get them to look at it.

I also started up the olds today, even though I couldn't get the gas out because of a bearing in the way. And it started up and ran nice.

I've got seafoam for the S10 and Olds, so hopefully they'll run better soon.
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From:makovette
Date:September 12th, 2015 11:32 pm (UTC)
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Ok yeah, you're describing almost perfectly lifter noise. Noisy lifters are not an evil the engine's gonna sploooode issue.

Seafoam, being a solvent based petroleum mix, will clear out most noisy lifter issues too btw, so you likely just need to follow the direction on the can label for adding to your oil. Please do not fall into the "More is Better" trap when adding anything to your oil.

Use the amount specified in the destruction's and no more. Solvent based additives can "thin" the oil out, reducing viscosity, if used excessively. That said, I'm betting even $US that adding it to your oil will cure the tapping lifter issue.

After the noise is gone, drive it for a couple hundred miles and then consider an oil change using Mobil 1 and a Mobil 1 oil filter or K&N oil filter and call it happy :) this will get the dissolved gunk out of the engine and you'll be motoring on happily from there.

If you're for what ever reason not comfortable with the idea of using Seafoam in the oil, use this instead (please ignore the horrible hype that it cures everything short of cancer on the can, just use as directed): http://www.walmart.com/ip/16889008?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227016736704&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40840068272&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=78653781032&veh=sem and the home page: http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/index.php/site/products/

The same idea on follow the instructions correctly apply :)

CYa!
Mako




Edited at 2015-09-12 11:34 pm (UTC)
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From:jakkal
Date:September 13th, 2015 12:19 am (UTC)
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Does the oil have to be changed? It was just changed a couple of months ago with full synthetic, I'd rather not change it again so soon :)
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From:makovette
Date:September 13th, 2015 12:28 am (UTC)
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Given it's fresh, no need to change the oil.

I have to add some to my truck too, it's all clackity clickity too, the 6.1 liter V8 it is famous for that.

Runs fine, it just sounds like a diesel engine when it's cold, DOH! :D

Mako

Edited at 2015-09-13 12:33 am (UTC)
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From:jakkal
Date:September 13th, 2015 12:50 am (UTC)
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For the seafoam in the oil, do you put it in where the oil goes when you change the oil? It said in the crankcase and I'm not familiar where that is.
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From:makovette
Date:September 13th, 2015 03:23 am (UTC)
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Correct, it goes in the same place you pour in the new oil. The cap should be labeled with either an oil can logo or OIL or similar. It iwll be located on a valve cover, not sure which side on your truck though. Youtoob for it as needed.

The crank case is literally that, it's the part of the engine block where the engine crank lives at the bottom of the engine. This is covered up by the oil pan.

Adding oil to the top of the engine through the cap or oil filler spout some engines have (like my truck) will cause the new the oil to drain through holes and passages down to the oil pan, where the oil pump sucks it up and then pumps it through more passages to all the critical moving parts of engine.

If there any doubts, post a quick engine photo from a Google images search of a similar truck and I'll confirm. Owners manual may be useful too.

CYa,
Mako




Edited at 2015-09-13 03:24 am (UTC)
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From:jakkal
Date:September 13th, 2015 03:31 am (UTC)
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It's a typical 4.3L V6 Engine on a 2003 S10. Changing the oil is actually something I can do myself, so I know where to put it in at least :)

Thanks!
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From:makovette
Date:September 13th, 2015 03:36 am (UTC)
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Win! :)

Sorry to go super basic, assuming someone knows something is the fastest way to help them make a mistake. Mistakes on engines are not cheap, please don't ask me how I know this... :-)

Mako
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From:jakkal
Date:September 13th, 2015 07:03 pm (UTC)
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Well I put the seafoam in the truck, and it did a great job of getting rid of that noise. But when I was driving it today, it started showing signs of the original problem I had in July. And then the SES light came on. But as I was driving it, the SES light was blinking, then it stopped blinking, and then the truck was running fine (But the light was still on).

Unfortunately, having it throw another code means that the computer has to be reset. Ugn, this really sucks. It has to pass that inspected before the end of the month.
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From:makovette
Date:September 12th, 2015 11:00 pm (UTC)
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Jakkal's Ramblings

The Equal Opportunity Offender